We began sorting our clothing and gear for our trip south to Nepalgunj and ultimately west to Bajura. Our morning flight was brief -- one hour -- but the gap in climate, lifestyle and living conditions was great.
As we flew out of the Kathmandu Valley, the Himalayas spread out to our right like an immense spine of rock and ice. Rising higher, we soon were flying through enormous glistening white clouds. It felt as if we were sailing through a bright blue sea of icebergs. As the plane turned south, the mountains gave way to rolling forested hills.
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| Near the airport in Nepalgunj, cattle wait patiently for their owner in front of a lush rice paddy. |
Nearing Nepalgunj, where we would overnight before heading on to Kolti to visit CARE projects, the hills disappeared and a large, flat, golden savanna spread before us. The sky glowed white from the heat. This was the hot and wet region called the Terai, which holds 70 percent of Nepal's arable land. Rice paddies, wheat and millet farms rolled out below us.
Walking off the plane in Nepalgunj, we were hit with muggy hot air. We made our way to an old and creaky, but brightly painted hotel on a dead-end street. A white picket fence encircled a small front lawn that was decorated with a bird bath and guest chairs. The garden was a relief from the dusty, waste-filled roads throughout the city. Deep red, purple and yellow flowers cascaded over the walls on vines and covered tree stumps, and the songs of birds filled the air.
One of the most striking things about Nepal is the constant sound of birdsong, the ever-present shadows of their wings, the flutter in the air above. Nepal is home to 10 percent of all bird species in the world and they are thriving.
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| Even young children are expected to pitch in with household chores. These hard-working boys live at the hotel in Nepalgunj with their parents. |
We visited the Hindu temple of Bageshwari Mandir, one of Nepalgunj's famous landmarks. Turning into the street leading to the temple we first walked through an alley lined with vendors selling brightly-colored powders piled on trays in small pyramids. A CARE staff member named C.L. explained that these were used for various types of meditation or prayer.
As we walked up the stairs into the temple, a group of small children came running past us, playing tag in the courtyard. Small clusters of people were scattered around the temple talking, meditating or praying; a young man circled the temple ringing a bell. The temple was very old, with beautifully carved scenes and sculptures covering the walls. Brass oil lamps hung from thick chains throughout the small interior. An elderly priest greeted and blessed us each, placing a smudge of red powder on our foreheads. We took a photo of the group on the steps of the temple.
On foot we returned to the center of the shopping district called Tribhuwan Chowk. As we passed each stall or open shop, various smells wafted out: musky spices and hot food, household cleaners, incense and perfumes. The buildings were three-storied, crumbling, but brightly painted in faded pinks, turquoises and blues. Elaborately carved window screens and lintels decorated the fronts. We found what we needed, and since it was getting dark, we headed back to the hotel.
Continue to Day 3